Creating something with your own hands is a special kind of magic. When that creation is a cute, cuddly dog, it’s even better. Learning how to crochet a dog, a craft also known as amigurumi, might seem complex at first, but it’s a wonderfully rewarding process.
You can transform a simple ball of yarn into a charming, three-dimensional companion, full of personality.
This guide is designed to walk you through every part of that process, from the first stitch to the final loving touches.
This comprehensive step-by-step tutorial is perfect for beginners. We’ll break down everything you need to know, assuming you have just a little bit of basic crochet knowledge.
We will cover the essential materials, the fundamental stitches, and the process of creating and assembling each part of your new puppy.
Don’t worry if you’ve never made a toy before. With clear instructions and helpful tips, you’ll be well on your way to crocheting an adorable dog that you can keep for yourself or give as a heartfelt, handmade gift.
Table of Contents
Getting Started: What You’ll Need to Crochet a Dog
Before you can begin your project, you’ll need to gather a few essential supplies.
Having everything ready will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable. Most of these items can be found at your local craft store or online.
1. Yarn:
The yarn you choose will define your dog’s look and feel. For beginners, a smooth, light-colored worsted-weight (medium #4) acrylic or cotton yarn is ideal. It’s easy to work with and allows you to see your stitches clearly.
- Main Color (MC): One skein for the body, head, and limbs (e.g., light brown, tan, grey).
- Contrast Color (CC): A smaller amount for features like the snout, paws, or tail tip (e.g., cream, white).
- Detail Color: A small scrap of black yarn for embroidering the nose and mouth.
2. Crochet Hook:
The hook size depends on your yarn weight. For worsted-weight yarn, a 3.5mm (E-4) or 4.0mm (G-6) hook is a good starting point. You want to create a tight fabric so the stuffing doesn’t show through, so it’s often best to use a hook size slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends.
3. Safety Eyes:
These are plastic eyes with a washer that fastens them securely from the inside. For a small dog, 9mm or 12mm safety eyes work well. If you’re making the toy for a small child, you may prefer to embroider the eyes with black yarn for safety.
4. Polyester Fiberfill (Poly-fil):
This is the stuffing that will give your dog its shape and squishiness. You’ll need a good handful to firmly stuff each part.
5. Stitch Marker:
When working in continuous rounds (a spiral), a stitch marker is crucial. It helps you keep track of the beginning of each round so you don’t lose your place. A simple safety pin or a scrap of contrasting yarn works perfectly.
6. Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle):
This is a large, blunt-tipped needle used for sewing the parts of your dog together and weaving in the ends.
7. Scissors:
A small, sharp pair of scissors is needed for cutting yarn.
Essential Stitches and Abbreviations
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here are the key stitches and techniques you’ll need to know.
- ch: chain
- st: stitch
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- inc: increase (work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch)
- dec: decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
- MR: Magic Ring (also called a magic circle)
- (…): stitches within the parentheses are worked in the same stitch
- *…: repeat the sequence within the asterisks for the specified number of times
Quick Technique Refresher
Magic Ring (MR): This is the best way to start amigurumi pieces because it creates a tightly closed starting hole.
To make it, you’ll loop the yarn around your fingers, insert your hook to pull up a loop, chain one, and then work your starting stitches into the center of the ring. Once done, you pull the tail end to cinch the hole shut.
Working in a Continuous Round: Most amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral, not joined rounds. This avoids a visible seam.
You’ll simply work the first stitch of the new round directly into the first stitch of the previous one. This is why a stitch marker is your best friend! Place it in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go.
Invisible Decrease (dec): For a much neater decrease, use the invisible decrease method. Instead of working through both loops of the two stitches you want to decrease, insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch.
Yarn over and pull through both front loops. Yarn over again and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook. This creates a much less bulky and almost invisible decrease.
The Pattern: Let’s Crochet a Dog!
Now for the fun part! We’ll create each piece separately and then assemble them at the end. Remember to use your stitch marker and count your stitches at the end of each round.
Step 1: Crocheting the Head
We’ll start from the top of the head and work our way down. Use your Main Color (MC) yarn.
- Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
- Round 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Round 3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
- Round 4: *sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
- Round 5: *sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
- Round 6: *sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
- Rounds 7-12: sc in each st around for 6 rounds. (36 sts)
Now is a good time to place the safety eyes.
Placing the Eyes:
Insert the safety eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, with about 7 stitches visible between them. Before securing the washers on the back, take a moment to look at the placement.
Are they even? Do they give the expression you want? Once you’re happy, push the washers firmly onto the posts until they click. They are permanent, so be sure of the placement before you secure them!
Now we’ll start decreasing to shape the bottom of the head.
- Round 13: *sc in next 4 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
- Round 14: *sc in next 3 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
- Round 15: *sc in next 2 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Start Stuffing: Begin to firmly stuff the head with fiberfill. Make sure to get a good amount in to shape the cheeks and top of the head. Continue adding stuffing as you close the opening.
- Round 16: *sc in next st, dec* repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
- Round 17: dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing later. Use your yarn needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole completely. Weave in the end.
Step 2: Crocheting the Snout
The snout gives your dog so much character! We’ll use the Contrast Color (CC) for this part.
- Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
- Round 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Round 3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
- Rounds 4-5: sc in each st around for 2 rounds. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a very long tail for sewing. You don’t need to stuff the snout, but you can add a tiny pinch of fiberfill for a little shape if you like.
Step 3: Crocheting the Body
The body is made from the bottom up. Use your Main Color (MC).
- Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
- Round 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Round 3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
- Round 4: *sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
- Round 5: *sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
- Round 6: *sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st* repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
- Rounds 7-14: sc in each st around for 8 rounds. (36 sts)
- Round 15: *sc in next 4 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
- Rounds 16-17: sc in each st around for 2 rounds. (30 sts)
- Round 18: *sc in next 3 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
- Rounds 19-20: sc in each st around for 2 rounds. (24 sts)
- Round 21: *sc in next 2 sts, dec* repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body. Stuff the body firmly, making sure to create a nice, solid shape.
Step 4: Crocheting the Legs (Make 4)
You’ll make four identical legs. Start with the Contrast Color (CC) for the paws.
- Round 1 (in CC): Start with a MR and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
- Round 2 (in CC): inc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Round 3 (in CC): *sc in next 3 sts, inc* repeat 3 times. (15 sts)
- Round 4 (in CC): sc in each st around. (15 sts)
- Round 5: Change to Main Color (MC). sc in each st around. (15 sts)
- Round 6: *sc in next 3 sts, dec* repeat 3 times. (12 sts)
- Rounds 7-12: sc in each st around for 6 rounds. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the legs lightly. You want them to be firm at the paw but a bit softer at the top so they can be positioned easily. Make three more legs exactly the same way.
Step 5: Crocheting the Ears (Make 2)
The ears are worked flat in rows, then folded to create their shape. Use your Main Color (MC).
- Row 1: ch 7. Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 6 chs. (6 sts)
- Row 2-10: ch 1, turn. sc in each st across. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Don’t stuff the ears. Fold the bottom corners together and make a small stitch to hold them in a slightly cupped shape. Make a second ear.
Step 6: Crocheting the Tail
Every dog needs a tail to wag! Use your Main Color (MC).
- Round 1: Start with a MR and work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)
- Round 2: *sc in next st, inc* repeat 2 times. (6 sts)
- Rounds 3-8: sc in each st around for 6 rounds. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. You can stuff the tail very lightly or leave it unstuffed. For a fun detail, you could make the last two rounds in your Contrast Color.
The Final Assembly: Bringing Your Dog to Life
This is where your crocheted pieces become a dog! Assembly requires patience, so take your time. Use pins to hold the pieces in place before you start sewing to ensure you like the placement.
1. Attach the Head to the Body:
Using the long tail from the body, place the head on top. The opening of the head should line up with the opening of the body. Use your yarn needle and the mattress stitch to sew them together securely. Go all the way around, making sure the connection is strong and seamless.
2. Sew on the Snout:
Pin the snout to the front of the face, just below the eyes. Using the long tail from the snout, sew it onto the head. Before you close it completely, you can add a tiny bit more stuffing if needed.
3. Add Facial Features:
Using your black scrap yarn and a yarn needle, embroider the nose and mouth onto the snout. A simple inverted ‘Y’ shape or a triangle for the nose works well. For the mouth, a single straight line down from the nose with a slight curve for a smile is perfect.
4. Attach the Ears:
Pin the ears to the top of the head. Position them symmetrically. You can have them pointing up or flopping down. Once you’re happy with the placement, sew them securely in place.
5. Attach the Legs:
For a sitting dog, pin the two back legs to the bottom sides of the body, and the two front legs slightly forward. For a standing dog, pin all four legs to the bottom of the body. Make sure your dog can sit or stand without toppling over before you start sewing. Sew each leg firmly to the body.
6. Attach the Tail:
Finally, pin the tail to the back of the body, centered above the back legs. Sew it on securely.
7. Weave in All Ends:
Go over your dog and find any remaining yarn tails. Use your yarn needle to weave them back into the body of the dog to hide them. Snip any excess.
You Did It!
Take a step back and admire your creation. You have successfully learned how to crochet a dog! This handmade treasure is a testament to your skill and patience. Each stitch was made by you, giving this little dog a unique personality that can’t be replicated.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with your next one. Try different colors, add spots by changing colors mid-row, or create longer, floppier ears. The possibilities are endless.
We would love to see your finished dog! Share a picture in the comments below or tag us on social media. Happy crocheting
